If you are just learning the game, you can read this
document straight through. If you are looking for a specific answer to a
question, just use the article index on the left to jump directly to the
section of interest.
Note to international visitors: The currency amounts and
chip colors mentioned on this page are written from the viewpoint of a visitor
to a casino in the United States, but all other information here should be
applicable around the world.
Casino Basics
Choosing a Table
Before playing the game, you'll need to find an appropriate
table at which to play. If you're a newcomer to this process, there are a few
items to keep in mind. You'll want to pay attention to several details about
each table that you approach. The most important item is the sign declaring
betting limits. Both the minimum and the maximum allowable bets should be
clearly posted on a sign on the table-top. Look around to find a table that
suits your bet sizes. Often, you'll find that the lower limit ($3 or $5) tables
are quite crowded. In most casinos, the signs are color-coded to match the minimum
bets posted on them: Red for $5, Green for $25, and Black for $100 minimum
tables. Next, you'll want to make sure that the table you have selected is
actually for blackjack, and not another of the various table games offered at
the casino. Blackjack tables will almost certainly have the phrase
"Blackjack pays 3 to 2" printed on the table felt. (Warning: Not any
more! Read about the evils of 6:5 blackjack). The next item to observe is the
type of game being dealt. Beginners are usually better off playing the
"shoe" games where 6 or 8 decks are used. The advantage for beginners
in this game is that all of the player's cards are dealt face-up in front of
each player, and the dealer can help with playing questions and decisions.
Notice: Once you become proficient at the game, you might want to switch to a
game with fewer decks. The casino's advantage is lower with fewer decks in
play. But for now, let's stick with the multi-deck games for the ease-of-play
advantage.
Buying Chips
Once you are seated at a table, you'll need to purchase some
chips from the dealer for your bets. Wait for a break in the action, and place
your cash out in front of you on the table felt. (Some casinos might make you
wait until the dealer shuffles to join the game.) An appropriate buy-in amount
is anywhere from 10 to 20 times your average bet. If you are a $5 bettor, this
means a buy-in of $50-$100 is typical. Don't try to hand your cash to the
dealer. For security reasons, he can't take anything from your hands. Simply
lay the cash on the table; he'll pick it up and change it for an equal value of
playing chips. You won't be getting any change back either. He'll change the
entire amount, push the chips across the table to you, and then drop the cash
into a slot in the table top. Chip colors are fairly standardized in the casino
industry, with red chips representing $5, green chips representing $25, and
black chips representing $100. You'll also see $1 value chips (usually white)
or $1 tokens (silver) on the table as well. Some casinos also use a $2.50 chip
that is usually pink in color. Chip colors above the $100 denomination vary
widely, with purple a common choice for $500 chips. Take a quick look at the
chips to make sure that you know the values, and that you were given the correct
amount for your cash. If you have any questions, just ask the dealer. Part of
his job is to help players learn the game.
Making a Bet
Once the cards are dealt, you aren't allowed to touch the
bet in the circle.
On the table felt in front of your position, you'll find a
circle or box for your bets. Before each hand begins, place your desired bet
into the circle in one stack. If you are betting multiple denominations of
chips, place the larger valued chips on the bottom of the stack, and the
smaller value chips on top. Once the cards have been dealt, you aren't allowed
to touch the bet in the circle. If you need to know how much you have bet for
doubling or splitting (explained later), the dealer will count down the chips
for you. Once the hand is over, the dealer will move around the table to each
position in turn, paying winners and collecting the chips from losing hands.
After the dealer has paid you, you can remove your chips from the circle, and
place your next bet. If you want to let your winnings ride, you'll need to form
one stack of chips from the two or more stacks on the table after the dealer
pays you. Remember, big chips should be placed on the bottom.
Cashing In
When you're finished playing, you'll want to take your chips
to the cashier to exchange them for cash. If you have groups of smaller
denomination chips in front of you, the dealer will probably want to
"color up" your chips. This simply means exchanging groups of smaller
denomination chips for larger valued chips. Wait until the end of a hand, then
simply push your chips out in front of you between the betting boxes, so it
can't be confused for a bet. The dealer will count down the chips, and return
to you a smaller stack of chips of equal value. You can take these to the
cashier for cash, or to another table for more play.
Basics of Blackjack
Premise of the Game
The basic premise of the game is that you want to have a
hand value that is closer to 21 than that of the dealer, without going over 21.
Other players at the table are of no concern. Your hand is strictly played out
against the hand of the dealer. The rules of play for the dealer are strictly
dictated, leaving no decisions up to the dealer. Therefore, there is not a
problem with the dealer or any of the other players at the table seeing the
cards in your hand. Indeed, if you're playing at a shoe game, the player cards
are all dealt face up. In any event, when you're just learning to play, don't
hesitate to show the dealer or other players your cards and ask questions.
Values of the Cards
In blackjack, the cards are valued as follows:
An Ace can count as either 1 or 11, as explained below.
The cards from 2 through 9 are valued at their face value.
The 10, Jack, Queen, and King are all valued at 10.
The suits of the cards do not have any meaning in the game.
The value of a hand is simply the sum of the point counts of each card in the
hand. For example, a hand containing (5,7,9) has the value of 21. The Ace can
be counted as either 1 or 11. You need not specify which value the Ace has.
It's assumed to always have the value that makes the best hand. An example will
illustrate: Suppose that you have the beginning hand (Ace, 6). This hand can be
either 7 or 17. If you stop there, it will be 17. Let's assume that you draw
another card to the hand and now have (Ace, 6, 3). Your total hand is now 20,
counting the Ace as 11. Let's backtrack and assume that you had instead drawn a
third card which was an 8. The hand is now (Ace, 6, 8) which totals 15. Notice
that now the Ace must be counted as only 1 to avoid going over 21.
A hand that contains an Ace is called a "soft"
total if the Ace can be counted as either 1 or 11 without the total going over
21. For example (Ace, 6) is a soft 17. The description stems from the fact that
the player can always draw another card to a soft total with no danger of
"busting" by going over 21. The hand (Ace,6,10) on the other hand is
a "hard" 17, since now the Ace must be counted as only 1, again
because counting it as 11 would make the hand go over 21.
The Deal of the Cards
Once all the bets are made, the dealer will deal the cards
to the players. He'll make two passes around the table starting at his left
(your right) so that the players and the dealer have two cards each. (European
and Australian players: See exception at the bottom of this section.) The
dealer will flip one of his cards over, exposing its value.
In the shoe games, the players cards will be dealt face-up,
and the players are not allowed to touch the cards. If you're just beginning,
you'll probably want to start at the shoe game where you don't have to worry
about handling the cards.
In the hand-held games, the player's cards are dealt face
down, and the players pick up the cards. When handling the cards in a hand-held
game, here are a few important things to remember.
You are only allowed to touch the cards with one hand. If
you're a poker player, this can take some effort to break old habits!
You must keep the cards over the table.
Any cards that the dealer subsequently deals to your hand
must be left on the table, not added to the cards in your hand.
Once the cards are dealt play proceeds around the table,
starting at the first seat to the dealer's left, also called first base. Each
player in turn indicates to the dealer how he wishes to play the hand. The
various player decisions are covered in their own section below. After each
player has finished his hand, the dealer will complete his hand, and then pay
or collect the player bets.
Now, the exception I mentioned: Some casinos, mostly in
Europe, give the dealer only one card face up until all the players have
finished their hands. The dealer then deals his second card, and finishes his
hand. This is called the European No Hole Card rule. This can change a player's
strategy if, and only if, the dealer collects all player bets in the event of a
dealer blackjack. Some casinos that deal only one card at first to the dealer
will refund any double-down or split bets if the dealer turns out to have a
blackjack. This type of no hole card rule does not have any effect on the
player's optimal strategy, and should not be described as European No Hole Card
rules.
How the Dealer Plays His Hand
The dealer must play his hand in a specific way, with no
choices allowed. There are two popular rule variations that determine what
total the dealer must draw to. In any given casino, you can tell which rule is
in effect by looking at the blackjack tabletop. It should be clearly labeled
with one of these rules:
"Dealer stands on all 17s": In this case, the
dealer must continue to take cards ("hit") until his total is 17 or
greater. An Ace in the dealer's hand is always counted as 11 if possible
without the dealer going over 21. For example, (Ace,8) would be 19 and the
dealer would stop drawing cards ("stand"). Also, (Ace,6) is 17 and
again the dealer will stand. (Ace,5) is only 16, so the dealer would hit. He
will continue to draw cards until the hand's value is 17 or more. For example,
(Ace,5,7) is only 13 so he hits again. (Ace,5,7,5) makes 18 so he would stop
("stand") at that point.
"Dealer hits soft 17": Some casinos use this rule
variation instead. This rule is identical except for what happens when the
dealer has a soft total of 17. Hands such as (Ace,6), (Ace,5,Ace), and (Ace, 2,
4) are all examples of soft 17. The dealer hits these hands, and stands on soft
18 or higher, or hard 17 or higher. When this rule is used, the house advantage
against the players is slightly increased.
The dealer has no choices to make in the play of his hand.
He must simply hit until he reaches at least 17 or busts by going over 21.
What is a Blackjack, or a Natural?
A blackjack, or natural, is a total of 21 in your first two
cards. A blackjack is therefore an Ace and any ten-valued card, with the
additional requirement that these be your first two cards. If you split a pair
of Aces for example, and then draw a ten-valued card on one of the Aces, this
is not a blackjack, but rather a total of 21. The distinction is important,
because a winning blackjack pays the player odds of 3 to 2. A bet of $10 wins
$15 if the player makes a blackjack. A player blackjack beats any dealer total
other than blackjack, including a dealer's three or more card 21. If both a
player and the dealer have blackjack, the hand is a tie or push.
The dealer will usually pay your winning blackjack bet
immediately when it is your turn to play. In the face down games, this means
that you should show the blackjack to the dealer at that time. Some casinos may
postpone paying the blackjack until after the hand is over if the dealer has a
10 card up and has not checked for a dealer blackjack. Other casinos check
under both 10 and Ace dealer upcards, and would therefore pay the blackjack
immediately. Regardless, when you are dealt a blackjack, turn the cards face
up, and smile. It only happens about once every 21 hands, but it accounts for a
lot of the fun of the game.
The Player's Choices
Surrender
We start with one of the least common decisions, but it is
appropriate to begin with surrender, because this decision must be made before
any other choice about playing your hand. Not every game offers surrender, and
those that do fall into two categories which bear expanation: Early vs Late.
Surrender offers you as a player the choice to fold your
hand, at the cost of half of the original bet. You must make that decision
prior to taking any other action on the hand. For example, once you draw a
third card, or split, or double down, surrender is no longer an option.
The two varieties of surrender, early and late, differ only
in the way a dealer blackjack is handled. In an early surrender game, a player
may choose to surrender before the dealer checks his cards for a blackjack, offering
a cheap way out even if the dealer turns out to have a blackjack. Because this
offers a healthy advantage to the player, this version (early surrender) is
rarely offered. The much more common variation is late surrender, where the
dealer checks for blackjack first, and then only if he does not have blackjack
will he allow players to surrender their hands.
Surrender is an excellent rule for players who use it
wisely. Unfortunately, many players surrender far too many hands. If you play
in a game with surrender, use our Blackjack Basic Strategy Engine to determine
when surrender is the appropriate play. To understand how bad a hand must be to
properly be surrendered, consider the following: To lose less with surrender,
you must be only 25% likely to win the hand (ignoring pushes). That is, if you
lose 75% of the time, and win only 25% of the time, your net loss is about 50%
of your bets, equal to the amount you'll lose guaranteed by surrendering. So,
learn to use the surrender option, but make sure you know when it is
appropriate.
It's worth mentioning again that the vast majority of
surrender is LATE surrender, after the dealer checks for BJ. Make sure you
choose the right option over on the Strategy Engine. And if you do find a game
that offers early surrender, drop me a note. Good opportunities like that are
rare.
Hitting/Standing
The most common decision a player must make during the game
is whether to draw another card to the hand ("hit"), or stop at the
current total ("stand"). The method you use to indicate your
decisions to the dealer depend on which kind of game you are playing.
In the face-up shoe game, you indicate that you want another
card by tapping the table behind your cards with a finger. You'll be required
to make the hand signals, rather than just announcing "hit" or
"stand" to the dealer. This is to eliminate any confusion or
ambiguity in what you choose, and also for the benefit of the ever-present
surveillance cameras. If you go over 21, or "bust", the dealer will
collect your bet, and remove your cards from the table immediately. When you
decide to stand, just wave your hand in a horizontal motion over your cards.
In the face-down game, things are a little different. You'll
hold the first two cards with one hand. To draw another card to your hand,
simply scrape your cards across the table felt lightly. Watch another player at
first to see how this works. The dealer will deal your additional cards on the
table in front of your bet. Add them to your total hand value, but leave the
actual cards on the table. If you go over 21, just toss the two cards in your
hand face up on the table. The dealer will collect your bet, and discard your
hand. When you decide to stand, you should tuck the two cards you are holding
face-down under the chips that you have bet. This can be a bit tricky the first
few times. Don't pick up the bet to place the cards underneath. Remember, once
the cards are dealt, you can't touch the chips in the circle. Simply slide the
corner of the cards under the chips.
The descriptions are a lot tougher than the actual play.
Just pay attention to what other players are doing and you'll fit right in.
Doubling Down
Among the more profitable player options available is the
choice to "double down". This can only be done with a two card hand,
before another card has been drawn. Doubling down allows you to double your bet
and receive one, and only one, additional card to the hand. A good example of a
doubling opportunity is when you hold a total of 11, say a (6,5) against a
dealer's upcard of 5. In this case, you have a good chance of winning the hand
by drawing one additional card, so you might as well increase your bet in this
advantageous situation. If you are playing in a face-down game, just toss the
two cards face-up on the table in front of your bet. In either type of game,
add an additional bet to the betting circle. Place the additional bet adjacent
to the original bet, not on top of it. The dealer will deal one additional card
to the hand. In the face-down game, he'll probably tuck it face-down under your
bet, to be revealed later.
Players are allowed to double down for any amount up to the
original bet amount, so you could double down "for less" if you
wanted. Just remember that you do give up something for being allowed to
increase your bet: the ability to draw more than one additional card. If the
correct play is to double down, you should always double for the full amount if
possible.
The question of when it is appropriate to double down is
easily answered by using the Blackjack Basic Strategy Engine.
Splitting Pairs
When you are dealt a matching pair of cards (remember, ignore
the suits), you have the ability to split the hand into two separate hands, and
play them independently. Let's say you are dealt a pair of eights for a total
of sixteen. Sixteen is the worst possible player hand, since it is unlikely to
win as is, but is very likely to bust if you draw to it. Here's a great chance
to improve a bad situation.
If you are playing a hand-held game, toss the cards face-up
in front of your bet just like a double down. Then, in either type of game,
place a matching bet beside the original bet in the circle. Note that you must
bet the same amount on a split, unlike a double-down, where you are allowed to
double for less. The dealer will separate the two cards, and treat them as two
independent hands. Let's say you draw a 3 on the first 8, for a total of 11.
Many casinos will allow you to double down on that hand total of 11 at this
point. When this is allowed, the rule is called "Double after Split",
predictably enough. Regardless, you can play the first hand to completion, at which
point the dealer will deal a second card to the second hand, and you can begin
making play decisions on it.
If you get additional pairs (in the first two cards of a
hand), most casinos will allow you to resplit, making yet another hand. The
most common rule allows a player to split up to 3 times, making 4 separate
hands, with 4 separate bets. If double after split is allowed, you could have
up to 8 times your initial bet on the table if you chose! Some casinos restrict
resplitting, and some allow unlimited splitting. Another fine point is that you
are allowed to split any 10-valued cards, so you could split a (Jack, Queen)
hand. However, this is usually a bad play: Keep the 20.
The other complication for pair splits concerns splitting
Aces. Splitting Aces is a very strong player move, so the casino restricts you
to drawing only one additional card on each Ace. Also, if you draw a ten-valued
card on one of your split Aces, the hand is not considered a Blackjack, but is
instead treated as a normal 21, and therefore does not collect 3:2 odds. Some
casinos allow resplitting Aces if you draw another, while many do not allow
resplitting Aces although they often do allow resplitting of any other pairs.
With all these restrictions, you may wonder whether it makes sense to split
Aces. The answer is a resounding YES. Always split pairs of Aces.
For accurate pair splitting advice, consult the Blackjack
Basic Strategy Engine.
Insurance and Even Money
Insurance is perhaps the least understood of all the
commonly available rules for Blackjack. This is not necessarily a bad thing
because the insurance bet is normally a poor bet for the player, with a high
house advantage. However, that's not always the case. So, here we go:
If the dealer turns an up-card of an Ace, he will offer
"Insurance" to the players. Insurance bets can be made by betting up
to half your original bet amount in the insurance betting stripe in front of
your bet. The dealer will check to see if he has a 10-value card underneath his
Ace, and if he does have Blackjack, your winning Insurance bet will be paid at
odds of 2:1. You'll lose your original bet of course (unless you also have a
Blackjack), so the net effect is that you break even (assuming you bet the full
half bet for insurance.) This is why the bet is described as
"insurance", since it seems to protect your original bet against a
dealer blackjack. Of course, if the dealer does not have blackjack, you'll lose
the insurance bet, and still have to play the original bet out.
In the simplest description, Insurance is a side-bet, where
you are offered 2:1 odds that the dealer has a 10-valued card underneath ("in
the hole"). A quick check of the odds yields this: In a single deck game,
there are 16 ten-valued cards. Assuming that you don't see any other cards,
including your own, the tens compose 16 out of 51 remaining cards after the
dealer's Ace was removed. For the insurance bet to be a break-even bet, the
hole card would have to be a ten 1 out of 3 times, but 16/51 is only 1 in
3.1875.
The situation is often thought to be different when you have
a Blackjack. The dealer is likely to offer you "even money" instead
of the insurance bet. This is just the same old insurance bet with a
simplification thrown in. Let's ignore the "even money" name, and
look at what happens when you insure a Blackjack. Let's say you bet $10, and
have a Blackjack. You would normally collect $15 for this, unless the dealer
also has a blackjack, in which case you push or tie.
Let's assume that the dealer has an Ace up, and you decide
to take insurance for the full amount, or $5. Now, two things can happen:
1) The dealer has a Blackjack. I tie with the $10, but
collect 2:1 on the $5 insurance bet for a total profit of $10.
2) The dealer does not have Blackjack. I lose the $5, but
collect $15 for my BJ. Total profit, again $10.
In either case, once I make the insurance bet, I'm
guaranteed a profit of $10, or even money for my original bet.
So, casinos allow me to eliminate the insurance bet
altogether, and simply declare that I want even money for my blackjack when the
dealer has an Ace showing.
You're probably thinking that sounds like a pretty good
deal. You're guaranteed a profit even if the dealer does have Blackjack. Just
remember that the guaranteed profit comes at a price. You'll win more money in
the long run by holding out for the $15, even though you'll sometimes end up
empty-handed. Nonetheless, many players are adamant that they prefer to take
even money when offered. Just be aware that you're costing yourself money when
you make that choice.
The basic strategy player should simply never take the
insurance bet, even the "even money" variety. Card counters on the
other hand can often detect situations where more than one-third of the
remaining cards are ten-valued, and the bet is then a profitable one. So,
unless you know the bet is favorable, just ignore it.
Summary
That's really all there is to know. If you've never played
the game before, it can be a little intimidating at first. Just sit down at a
table with a friendly-looking dealer and give it a try. After 10 minutes, all
these details will be easy. Like many things, it's easier done than said!
Before you go to the casino, you may want to try a few hands at the
BlackjackInfo Strategy Trainer.
Good luck!
by Kenneth R Smith
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